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跟著Chilli 逛酒莊: 義大利 Barolo 最負盛名的酒莊 G. Conterno

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Giacomo Conterno長時間以來一直就是Barolo地區以製作高品質Barolo最負盛名的酒莊,而Monfortino是其最頂級的酒款只在品質優異的年份製作。Grandi Vini: Italy's 89 finest wines這本書並沒有把Monfortino選入89支最好的義大利酒名單裡,原因是作者在首頁就有寫到偉大的Barolo Monfortino Riserva已是其他酒的標竿跟衡量的標準,自成一格。

酒莊位在Monforte D'Alba村中心教堂後方小路下去,佔地頗廣。

Conterno雖自1920年代前後開始生產Monfortino不過其實直到1974年才有自己的葡萄園Cascina Francia(14 ha,位於Serralunga南邊)。Conterno的名聲由Giacomo建立、Giovanni奠定穩固的基礎(與他的阿公同名,但也已於2003年過世)、接著由第四代Roberto繼續將他們的"傳統與經典"發揚光大﹔2008年又新買進位於Serralunga北邊的葡萄園Cerretta。

 

寬敞明亮的接待處。

 

盡頭靠牆壁的桌上放的應該是最近開瓶的一些老酒~ 我們沒有在這邊試飲而是直接進cellar去做barrel tasting~

 

接待室的旁邊是沒有在運作的裝瓶機器,突然看到這麼一台光亮現代化的機器有點錯愕,跟心目中的傳統派想像有點差距。(我們下一家去拜訪的酒莊Giuseppe Rinaldi就徹頭徹尾是一個傳統死硬派的樣子。)

 

下了樓梯進入地下室之後映入眼簾是乾淨新穎, 一塵不染的cellar,有各種大尺寸的木桶陳放。我們這天大概有試飲了5種酒,毎一款酒都是Roberto親自一一幫我們裝盛,裝完5杯酒(我們同行四人加上他自己手上那一杯)他會非常仔細的擦拭酒桶的吸管出口以及木桶上可能不小心被噴濺到的各個區域面積,完全可以感受到他對這個新穎的cellar的悉心呵護。

我們喝的第一杯是Cascina Francia Barbara d'ALBA 2010, 第二杯是新購進葡萄園Cerretta Barbera d'ALBA 2010, 第3杯也是Cerretta的Nebbiolo 2009。2009年份喝起來相當floral,我們跟Roberto提到前一晚剛好喝到他們家首年份, 2008年的Cerretta Langhe Nebbiolo, 喝起來比較多水果, 薄荷跟青草味道, 比較重﹔但是2009年比較輕盈多花香。Roberto解釋到2008年年中他們才接手這片葡萄園,葡萄已經在生長,他們花了相當大的力氣整理葡萄園沒想到整個夏天這個園又數次遇到冰雹襲擊,讓他們花了加倍的心力。首年份決定讓它降級到Langhe等級,2010年份已經決定要貼標Barolo,但2009年份他還沒有決定,不過傾向於跟2008年份一樣貼標Langhe...

* the period from harvest to release is two years for his Barbera “Cascina Francia,” four years for Barolo “Cascina Francia” and seven years for Barolo “Monfortino”

 

第4杯喝的可能是Cascina Francia Barolo 2008 (時間有點久了不太確定)﹔第5杯是Cascina Francia 2005(Monfortino,應該預計是在2012年以後上市)。

Roberto的英文其實不錯可是他堅持只說義大利文,一切要透過他的助理翻譯成英文給我們聽,但是如果助理翻譯的不夠完美,他自己又會用英文補充解釋,真是奇怪又矛盾的堅持。我們問到他是怎麼選到Cerretta這塊地的,他說他其實想要多買一塊地已經很久了但是總是沒有適當的標地物... 一直到broker帶著大小(3 ha)跟位置都不錯的這塊Cerretta出現。我們也問了日益炎熱的天氣對於酒的品質跟個性是否會出現影響? Roberto的回答大概是說幾乎沒有影響,甚至現在天氣比較穩定氣候比較可預測,這對葡萄栽種來說還是一項優點!

 

My very first Monfortino!!! 我跟Roberto這樣說,他也笑了笑說"really?"並且很開心我能喝到他們最引以為傲,傑出傳奇的Monfortino。

品嘗起來相當輕盈,有著玫瑰跟櫻桃的優雅細緻的香氣,絕對是一瓶高雅的酒! 但是這跟我聽說的Monfortino風格不太一樣,這麼年輕的酒不應該是"強勁深厚"嗎? 隔天在La Morra的Bottega del Barolo酒店跟老闆聊到Monfotino風格的變化,老闆在聊到開心的時候也卸下心防說出同樣的感受...當他在喝2002年份的Monfortino的時候不確定自己喝的是Monfortino或是Monprivato? 風格真的有轉變嗎我沒有資格評論,也許當很多年以後如果我有幸多累積幾瓶新舊Monfotino的經驗之後,再回來驗證吧!

關於2002年Monfortino,Antonio Galloni 給的評價非常的好! WA:98 Conterno’s 2002 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a legend in the making, or now that it is in bottle, it may be more correct to simply say it is a legend. The late Giovanni Conterno and his son Roberto Conterno created quite a stir when they announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002, a year in which most of the harvest in Piedmont was severely compromised by a cold summer and devastating hail in early September. But there was more. The Conternos not only announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002 but no Barolo Cascina Francia for the first time ever in the estate’s history. In a bit of defiance towards the press, the Conternos then announced no one would be allowed to taste the wine from barrel. Over the years, this stance softened. Visitors lucky enough to visit the cellars and sample the wine from cask knew what was in store. Simply put, the 2002 Monfortino is stratospheric. A dark, imposing, but sensual wine, it flows from the glass with a breathtaking array of dried roses, autumn leaves, wild cherries, plums, new leather, espresso, licorice and spices, showing phenomenal depth, richness and balance. The tension between the luxuriousness of the fruit and the austerity of the vintage is truly captivating. I have tasted the 2002 Monfortino multiple times from barrel and bottle. At times it has reminded me of what I imagine the 1971 tasted like upon release, at other times it has seemed more similar to 1978. According to Giovanni Conterno, the 2002 reminded him of the 1971. Either way, the wine is extraordinary. The 2002 Monfortino is the result of the cold vintage that was typical of Piedmont up until the mid 1980s. In many ways, it is a throwback to wines that can’t be made anymore in Piedmont. Roberto Conterno thought so highly of the 2002 Monfortino he gave the wine an extra year in barrrel. And of course, there is one sad footnote. The world lost Giovanni Conterno to cancer in 2004, but he made sure his last Monfortino was at least equal, if not better, than his most monumental wines. There is little doubt the 2002 Monfortino will soon take its place as one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made. It is the most fitting last chapter to the life of one of the world’s greatest winemakers. As always, I suggest readers who have an interest in Monfortino taste the wine as soon as possible, as it will soon head into a period of dormancy, which in this vintage may last several decades. One of my favorite vintages for current drinking is the 1970, which still looks to have another 30 years of fine drinking ahead of it! Anticipated maturity: 2027-2052.

 

我們跟相當嚴謹但很親切的Roberto合影,他一直送我們到門口並一一握手道再見! 結束Conterno的參觀已經11點,我們應該要火速前往下一家酒莊Giuseppe Rinaldi去了,跟他們安排參觀的時間就是在11點鐘開始。

關於Monfortino一定要拜讀黃教授的大作"難忘的Monfortino"(上) (下)兩集,若是對義大利酒有興趣也可以加入臉書The Italian Wine Tasting Club (Taiwan)做分享。對Barolo/Barbaresco有心得的也可以參與討論: 假設現今要彷效波爾多的分級制度,在Barolo及Barbaresco區對於酒莊進行分級,那麼哪5個酒莊會是"一級酒莊"? (開放選項投票)

 

這張照片一定要貼一下,這是在Monforte D'Alba教堂對面巷子裡搭建的牌樓,上面雖然是寫著Marco Polo,可是整個造型跟風格有沒有跟台灣很相似? 好像我小時候的鄉下喔~

 

參觀完Rinaldi之後(12.30pm),一行四人決定找個風景絕佳的山邊做野餐~

 

從這個野餐石桌看下去的景色,好開闊啊~

 

午餐就在Barolo村買了一些火腿起士跟麵包,飲料就是盛夏最適合的Asti! 四人中午隨便就喝掉兩瓶。

 

野餐完就下去葡萄園走走。Barolo葡萄園的坡度都相當陡,其實不太好走。

 

啊~~~ 好一片葡萄園啊!!!

 

散步完回去取車,準備要做下午三點鐘Giuseppe Mascarello的參訪了!

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